Anyway, getting on this peak means insane views of the Matterhorn and the rest of the filthy stupidness of the high alps. We decided to stay in the French speaking part of Valais in order to avoid the over-abundance of alpensheiße nearby.
The trek starts at 1800m near the hamlet of évolene, about 1h45 min from my layer, in a less travelled corner of the alps. We spent the afternoon sat. trekking up the rotten moraines of the once expansive glacier de ferpecle. The huge valley glaciers around here are rapidly evaporating making the long 12 km trek to the refugue at 3500m a pain in the ass. We spent saturday night at the hut, where we slept shittily due to the vieux guides having a fondue party until midnight.
Warm temps until sunset allowed for an outdoor dinner on our S. facing balcony, even at 3500m. We prepared a mexican feast with a dessert of diamox.
The view from the refuge is quite fantastic.
Another recent attempt at night photography. I forgot you're supposed to leave out the moon.
After climbing above the hut a little ways, we were presented with the Matterhorn and the Dent d'Herens. Yes thanks.
Le Cervin.
West towards the Mont White.
The arete included two sections of snow/ice. Yay we get to climb with crampons and boots and axe.
Once on the rock, we climbed mostly-shortroped. Most of the climbing was probably in the 5.5-5.8 range. We opted to climb the grand gendarme, which probably was around 5.8 and pitched at three pitches. The route is about 650 meters of rock, almost 2000 feet.
Jean-Charles on an easier section.
Jean Charles following up a part of the climb that veers onto the West Face.
On the summit.
The descent is more difficult that the ascent because you backtrack almost 500 meters of technical climbing. It was good practice.
Jean-Charles downclimbing a nice section of gneiss.
To avoid the Grand Gendarme on the way down, you wrap your rope around these metal horns called tiges. They are designed to hold multiple parties. I've never seen anything like it.
The route follows skyline right. After the climb we had a nice 2000 meter descent to the car among les moutons noirs.
The Valais provides.
