Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'thang?

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E_$
imminent whippage

Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'thang?

Post by E_$ »

Tomorrow night, my bro is flying up from his CA couch/desk for a 3-day Squamish wknd. Would love to take him up the Grand Wall, but I've climbed a paltry 2x this year and he's climbed less.

We will climb a long-ish route, though, and I'm sure could handle the subject trio. Maybe even the Borderline approach to Angel's, as I've done the former before--but not sure if my bro will be up for the demanding initial pitches. Thinking prob Rock On approach to Squamish B, but have done scarce research on any of these. Don't know squat about the UE.

What's your favorite of these 3? What's your favored approach? We'll prob only do one of these climbs, saving teh other days for cragging, e.g. area classics like Great Game.

Thanks for any ideas/feedback.

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by skykilo »

Definitely not Ultimate Everything, in my opinion. Angel's Crest might be best. But if you haven't done Rock On or St Vitus, one of those to Squamish Buttress could be better. But that wouldn't feature any hiking at all, so I figure you'll go for Angel's Crest.

ryanl

Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by ryanl »

Yeah, I agree with Hefe. I've climbed U.E. twice now and wouldn't recommend it. It's kind of fun, and gives lots of pitches, but nothing memorable. For pure unadulterated climbing fun, I'd vote for St.Vitus to Karen's Math to Memorial Crack to Sqam Buttress. Rock-on is great, but you get more fun pitches with any of the St Vitus variations...

$- have fun, and call me when you get back. I'm ready to hang again.....

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by skykilo »

Ryan nailed it. I forgot that Rock On puts you above Memorial Crack and Karen's Math and those two pitches are highly worthwhile. But that would be a much more strenuous day than Angel's Crest, so estimate your fitness or desire to suffer and giv'er.

Meanwhile, Naomi is climbing and I guess she can't be bothered to give you advice.

E_$
imminent whippage

Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by E_$ »

thanks for the info fellas. UE is out.
i have climbed rock on and st vitus before (long ago), but the lower apron approach and taking in Karen' math etc. sounds cool.
angel's crest also looks good. i'll let my brother decide.

ryan, yes let's get together next week. i could prob crag 1/2 day wednesday...

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skykilo
olikyks
from Santa Fe
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Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by skykilo »

Squamish propaganda has it that there are some other good climbs on that part of the Apron, too. Have fun!

naomig
naomig

Re: Best: Squamish Butt or Angel's Crest or Ultimate Ever'th

Post by naomig »

I can be bothered answering, but as Sky already mentioned I was out climbing all day today... in Squamish. Man, I just love that place. Too much fun to be had.

You've already gotten all the good advice from S&R. How long are you in Squamish for? Maybe we could meet up? I'm hoping to climb Fri & Sat too but have no confirmed climbing partner yet. Sunday I'll to Rock On and UoE. What's your number? I'll give you a holla if I'm there.

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