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Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:22 am
by skykilo
Then it was time to scope a new basalt area a whopping one minute farther down the road called The Playground.

This is a 5.9 splitter hands to fingers crack called Beginner's Crack. That's why I have my foot tangled in the rope like that.
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The Playground is all trad and very steep with some fun funky starts.
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Lots of classic cracks there are officially unnamed, like this one.
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Then it snowed so it was time to go skiing at Santa Fe. Santa Fe Baldy is in the distance on the left.
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Nice powder over some old, hard spring-snow moguls.
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The Playground was so fun we had to go there again.
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Another day at The Overlook yesterday and Naomi had to flex her fingers and hop on some 5.11 sporto action. See the crack on the right?
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It's called Squeeze Chimney. A short squeeze chimney leads to stellar overhanging hand jams and finger locks.
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This one is sooooooo fun.
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Time to pull another roof!
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Naomi likes a beatdown. She hopped on this 5.11c and a little flight time retweaked her knee but she'll be in action again right away.
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I have my eye on this splitter hand crack that pulls through the middle of a monster roof. But it's going to snow again so it might be a few days.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:41 pm
by danhelmstadter
cool lookn stuff!

have you had any scorpians or fury spiders scamper out of a fingerjams?

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:16 am
by skykilo
These crags are at about 6,000 ft and it's too cold for them kinda critters. But there are plenty of lizards, snakes, elk, coyotes and birds.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:36 pm
by ziff
sorry to hear naomi tweaked her knee again. seems like we are following the same trajectory as I tweaked mine again two weeks after the original bang. why is healing so bloody slow :-)

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 3:08 am
by jplotz
Chingon!

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:22 am
by ryanl
Looking good down there Sky. Seems like a pretty nice balance you have going on.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 3:00 pm
by naomig
ziff wrote:sorry to hear naomi tweaked her knee again. seems like we are following the same trajectory as I tweaked mine again two weeks after the original bang. why is healing so bloody slow :-)
I got a bit excited climbing. My knee felt almost 100%, but I guess 90% healed wasn't good enough. Damn those bone bruises.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 3:40 pm
by ziff
who knew bone bruises could be so bad!

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:25 pm
by E_$
yeah sorry to hear that naomi--here's to a quick re-recovery!
looks like a hell of a lotta varied fun down there. can't wait to visit when this hellish quarter is over.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 3:31 am
by skykilo
She was sending again today, so don't waste too much pity. We aren't even hitting the tip of the iceberg down here. It appears that you can't drive more than an hour in any direction in New Mexico without some good climbing.

Re: Abril 2011, Viva Nuevo Mexico II

Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:32 am
by skykilo
skykilo wrote: The Playground was so fun we had to go there again.
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I climbed this one today with Pasha and fumbled my way through the upper crux. I had made it more awkward than usual but finally I had the topout jugs in my hands. Then suddenly, I heard a scream that sounded like a little girl. I can't say exactly what happened but I was flying through the air sideways. I took a good twenty footer, completely by surprise after having passed the crux. I eventually climbed to the top but I was damaged goods and felt like I didn't know how to climb. Still, it was a good afternoon.