August 8/10
After many years of skiing on the North shore mountains and looking across the border to the North Face of Mt.Baker I knew one day I had to ski it.I sure had a lot of practice in whiteouts. A lot of factors have to come into play to pull it off.Weather,work,desire,motivation,fear.
I had friend across the border Dan Helmstadter who was living in a van down by the river with his dog, who I knew would be a good partner to ski this.He had recently skied the Liberty ridge on Rainier, and had solo skied the line a few years ago.
Dan made sure to secure his dog this time.I didn't think Sadie could pull off the North ridge.We we're ready for the one day assault and quickly made the hike to the glacier. We we're a little low and had to negotiate some big slots.Passed the bergschund and climbed the first snowslope.
We wrapped around to the ice section.I was considering turning around here with 4 ice screws and one 30metre rope and testy soft snow.Especially the massive crevasse below if you made a mistake.We simul climbed the lower ice section then Dan belayed me up on the steeper part.We then slogged up the snow slope in partial whiteout to the summit.We skied off the summit in partial cloud.The snow felt fine a little soft and we stopped above the ice fall where Dan lowered me and I did a short rappel.Dan decided to down climb the 65 to 70 degree ice.
We we're now in a full on whiteout but I was happy to be clicked into my skies.In one way the whiteout helped,I didn't feel the exposure.We slowly made the descent by following our tracks and surprisingly had great skiing above the schrund.It worked out even better with the clearing onto the lower glacier.
Skiers;Andy Traslin,Dan Helmstadter
In memory of Chris Hansen.
